Where to stay in Hoi An

The historic core runs along Tran Phu, Nguyen Thai Hoc and Bach Dang streets, from the Japanese Covered Bridge east to the central market. Shops, tailors, cafés and restaurants occupy the old houses, and the central lanes are closed to most motor traffic for much of the day. Staying here, or on the streets just around it, means you can see the town early in the morning before the tour groups and walk back after dinner. Expect smaller hotels without much outdoor space, and evening crowds at the busiest spots.

A small island directly opposite the old town, reached by a footbridge from Bach Dang Street. Its riverbank is lined with bars and restaurants facing the lanterns, and the night market sets up here every evening. It's the liveliest place to stay after dark, and handy for the boats that take visitors out to float candles on the river.

The residential neighbourhoods north of the old town have plenty of villas and small hotels with pools, often down quiet lanes. Most are a 10 to 20-minute walk from the Covered Bridge or a few minutes by bike, and local eateries and coffee shops are close by. It's a good compromise if you want space and calm at night without being far from the centre.

A long, low island across the Cam Nam bridge from the eastern end of the old town. Nguyen Tri Phuong, its main road, has a growing number of villas and homestays, while the eastern end is still mostly gardens and fishponds. The centre is roughly 10 to 20 minutes away on foot from the hotels nearest the bridge; further east, a bicycle makes more sense.

East of the old town, the road to Cua Dai runs past rice fields, small canals and the De Vong river. Many of Hoi An's mid-range villas and riverside hotels are here, usually with a pool and free bicycles. The old town is about 2 to 3 km away and the beaches a similar distance in the other direction, so this area suits people who want both and don't mind a short ride.

Tra Que is a village of herb and vegetable gardens north-east of town, known for its fragrant greens and the cooking classes and farming experiences run there. Staying around Tra Que and Cam Ha puts you among fields, roughly halfway between the old town and An Bang Beach, both an easy cycle away.

Further east, towards the river mouth, the countryside turns to water coconut palms and channels, where round bamboo basket boats take visitors out on the water. Homestays here are surrounded by greenery and very quiet; you'll rely on a bicycle, taxi or the hotel for trips into town.

An Bang, around 4 to 5 km north of the old town, is the more popular beach, with seafood restaurants and beach bars behind the sand. Cua Dai, to the east, has been badly affected by erosion in recent years. Staying on the coast suits a beach-first trip, with the old town a 15-minute taxi ride away.