Where to stay in Manila

This is the Manila of the history books. Intramuros, the walled city the Spanish began in the late 16th century, holds Fort Santiago, Manila Cathedral and San Agustin Church, one of the baroque churches on UNESCO's World Heritage list. Rizal Park (also called Luneta) and the National Museum buildings are just outside the walls.

Ermita and Malate run south along Roxas Boulevard and the bayfront, where people gather in the early evening to watch the sun go down over Manila Bay. The streets behind the boulevard are full of small hotels, cafés and bars. It is the most convenient base for a first, sightseeing-led visit, and the LRT-1 line along Taft Avenue links it with Pasay to the south and Santa Cruz to the north.

Pasay covers the stretch between Malate and the airport. Its newer western half sits on land reclaimed from the bay and is dominated by SM Mall of Asia, one of the largest malls in the country, with the Mall of Asia Arena and the SMX exhibition halls beside it. Trade fairs are held nearby at WTC Metro Manila, and the casino resorts of Entertainment City continue south into Parañaque.

It is a practical choice if you are flying in late or out early, or if you are in town for an event at the arena or one of the convention venues. Older Pasay, inland, is more crowded and local, but well served by the LRT-1 and by the EDSA corridor.

Makati is the country's main financial district, with office towers along Ayala Avenue and the linked Ayala malls, including Greenbelt and Glorietta. Poblacion, the old town centre on the northern side, has become one of the city's liveliest areas for small bars and restaurants, and Circuit Makati, a newer development on the site of the old Santa Ana racetrack, adds a mall and event venues near the Pasig River.

Next door, Bonifacio Global City (BGC) in Taguig is a planned district of wide pavements, towers and malls. Both are cleaner and calmer to walk around than older Manila, but rooms tend to cost more, and the historic sights are a taxi ride away.

North of the Pasig River, Binondo is often described as the oldest Chinatown in the world and is a favourite for food walks. Santa Cruz and Quiapo around it are dense, noisy market districts, home to Quiapo Church and miles of shopping streets. Further east, Sampaloc is the 'University Belt', with the University of Santo Tomas on España Boulevard and many smaller colleges, and Santa Mesa continues beyond it.

Rooms here are some of the cheapest in the city, and the area is well connected: the LRT-1 runs along Rizal Avenue and the LRT-2 heads east along Recto and through Santa Mesa towards Cubao in Quezon City. It suits budget travellers, students and anyone on a longer stay who doesn't need a polished neighbourhood.